Find Enjoyment

shaping 101

2008-12-15T23:15:00.000-08:00

i started hacking into the blank today. first mistake, using a rusty blunt handsaw. its equivalent to cutting the grass with a ruler.. or something. anyway, cleaned the rest up with the surform and now i will leave it for a day. i dont want to start perfecting the template until ive planed it a bit. i also bought a respirator.. you know.. so i dont die.

take one templated blank

go to town on it with a blunt handsaw and a surform

and you get the beginnings of a surfboard

plus a stoked and bearded danster.

christmas came early!

2008-12-15T00:46:00.000-08:00

in record time, the blokes at surfblanks australia sent the 2 6'6" knee fish blanks i ordered.

ive already templated one up and hope to get started hacking out the shape tomorrow. heres hoping i dont fuck it up.

who the fuck is benny carney?

meet the newest members of the quiver

on the left - 6'0 quad and on the right 6'4 round pin

there is no exuse for this sort of caper!

tools of the trade

2008-12-14T02:51:00.000-08:00

and here it is

the mandatory quiver shot

the case in order of appearance

*9'0 sailboard purchased for $20 from the tip shop - good for paddling on flat days and going straight

*6"6" pipdream pintail - goes fast and turns on a pin. i never use it because im too fat but pete fell in love it when he surfed it on his recent souther sojourn

*9'2" RB log - i love this board. i use it heaps on the north coast. ive started riding it as a single fin and find it much faster and easier to turn. i try not to ride it too much these days

*6'9" MSF - i bought this in indonesia this year and only really surfed it once i got home. had a great surf on it recently. i love flat rocker. it catches waves far too easily, and if it was 6 inches shorter i would probably sell the rest of my boards. its that good.

*7'2" MR thruster - bought this for a steal a few years ago. i never use it because its simply too big but am going to keep it in case i ever get good enough to need a gun in my quiver. ive had a few offers to buy it for indo trips but i dont think ill ever sell it.

* 6'6" swallowtail thruster. - my go to board. i also bought this in indo this year and it works a dream on the beachbreaks at dreamaland and canngu. easy to catch waves, easy to turn, drives hard when you push it and its banana yellow to boot. rock and roll!

*dimension-less single fin circa 1970 - bought this for $50 from the paper a year ago. its waterlooged and heavy as and i'll doubt it will ever be fixed but it goes awesome as a belly board.

lately ive also been bodysurfing. and its awesome. i got barrelled with nothing but my arms and legs. of course i didnt make it out, but i still got barrelled. its totally awesome and it means i can get in the ocean at any time i want. bay of fires is awesome for bodysurfing. the big dumping shorebreaks are terrific for it.

Titch the Wonderdog. march 23rd 2007 to August 18th 2008.

2008-10-16T04:41:00.000-07:00

Oh what a glorious dog you were Titch. Words can't empress how much I miss you. Every morning being woken up with sloppy sloppy dog kisses. Dog hair all over my clothes. You sitting on my lap whilst I was driving. Tearing around the backyard with my Ipod or Ash's shoes or my wallet or a phone or a pot plant (you get the picture). I can't quite remember how your name came about, but I do recall mum wanted to call you Lily. Ha! You were a rocker Titch. You didn't follow rules. Lily was no name for you. And it was the rocker streak that saw you to the dog shelter. Unable to controlled by my 50 year old mother whilst I was away, you were passed on to the next family. If you are reading this Titch, firstly, I am amazed that you can both read and use the internet, and secondly... I miss you.

I miss the way you would spoon me at night.

And how your collar resemble a business tie.

I miss your disgustingly long tongue.

And how you were so fiercely independant you wouldn't accept a helping hand.

I miss your complete disregard for order

(and the way you wore your lobster toy like a bib)

And you're determination to overcome your fear of water

Most of all, I miss the love Titch. There is a hole in my heart Titch, gnawed by your teeth of compassion over the course of the year we spent together. We loved each other unconditionally. Oh what a dog you were. What a glorious dog!

dumplings are for winners

2008-09-17T22:16:00.000-07:00

reasons why the north coast is awesome

2008-09-12T06:17:00.000-07:00

Some people aren't big on having their spots exposed to the hordes and masses over the internet. I have no problem in doing this with the north coast. Everyone knows it's there, and everyone knows it is incredibly fickle. It's rainy, it's windy, and unfortunately is the planned site of Australia's largest pulp mill, so one day it'll probably be covered in toxic green monsters. The 'here one minute gone the next' kind of swells provide plenty of opportunity for exploring ze coastlines and shooting shit with all the other north coast devotees.

bean cat/surf rat

2008-09-12T04:34:00.000-07:00

Bean Cat/Surf Rat (aka beancow chief of beef) is my number one surfing amigo. He loves surfing as much as I do. A Low Head surfer from way back he knows how to make the best out of the worst surfing situations and when the surf is onshore and crumbly you can be sure he will be suiting up before you have time to scratch your beard and say 'maybe it's better up the beach'. Muchos Gracious for all the hours of idle chit chat waiting for sets!

Happy Snaps - Volume 3

2008-09-10T07:26:00.000-07:00

If you're planning on becoming a rich expat retiree, you can't really get much better than Indo.

Moody afternoons on Kuta beach.

Stuck behind peak hour traffic in Lombok

Although Singapore has no surf, it does have a few things going for it. Crazy bollywood parties in Little India, amazing public transport, plenty of air conditioning and a thriving population of metropolitan pandas.

The best $1 breakfast/lunch/dinner in Bali.

Happy Snaps Volume 2.

2008-09-09T03:47:00.000-07:00

Off in the distance. Smoking Barrells!

Indo-Groms discover the wheel.

Ice Cream + Canadians = Living the Dream

Love can be found everywhere in Indo.

Norway is for lovers.

Happy Snaps Volume 1

2008-09-09T03:14:00.003-07:00

Lombok line up. Unfortunately shot while speeding away in the jimney.

Indo-Groms!

Maneater!

Liz and myself diving in Sipadan. Look! No mask!

Post Count - ONE!

2008-09-09T02:44:00.000-07:00

Well I have returned from my 3 month sojourn. 2 months of waves in Indo, and a month of diving in Malaysia. 80 hours under the ocean and god knows how many bobbing up and down on the surface.

Some firsts for the trip; first cutback, first backhand snap, first floaters, first half second 4 foot close-out barrell, first underwater shark sighting, first turtles going at it on the surface sighting, first a million different types of fish sightings, first secret conversation in Indonesian, first 30c serving on Mie Goreng (first of MANY!), first Norwegian romance, first case of typhoid. The list goes on.

Absolute highlights would be a week driving through Lombok, chasing sharks, seeing mola mola in Nusa Penida, sharing my favourite song with my holiday romance, $6 one hour massages after 8 hours of surfing, catching my first real 6 foot wave at Dreamland, seeing a sloth (albeit in the Singapore Zoo), and finally, winning over Nopi, the 3 year old girl who lived next door to me for a week in Indonesia.

Unfortunately my camera was unusable for the majority of my trip, but I'll endeavour to get some up eventually.